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Posted by Chase O'Briant | 01.30.2024 | Learn To Surf

What Makes a Surf Spot Your Favorite?

Most surfers have at least one break, maybe two, that holds a special place in their heart.  Typically, one of these spots is a person’s “home break,” meaning it is the spot closest to where they currently live, or is the spot where they first learned to surf.  A home break, for many of us, isn’t necessarily the best place you’ve ever surfed.  This only holds true for surfers born in Hawaii, certain places in Central America, and Australia.  If you’re born and bred on the east coast, like I am, your home break holds more sentimental value than actual potential for quality waves.  I consider my home break to be Crystal Pier in Wrightsville Beach because that is where I caught my first waves and spent most of my childhood surfing.  That said, Crystal Pier isn’t even remotely the top spot in the area and is geared more towards beginner to intermediate riders.  This spot will always hold a place in my heart, even when I elect to paddle out elsewhere when we get a solid swell in the Wilmington area.

Next comes a surfer’s favorite spot.  This could be a spot they surf regularly, or even a place they’ve only visited once but have fallen in love with right away.  The common theme with a favorite spot is that there is a high potential for high quality waves, though consistency is not always a factor.   I have two favorites – one being Playa Marbella, Costa Rica and the other is a hidden spot in Kure Beach, NC.  Marbella offers both consistency and high quality, and funnily enough it took me surfing that spot at least 3-4 times to appreciate the wave that breaks there.  The spot in Kure Beach does not offer consistency, in the general sense of how often it’s possible to surf there, but when the wave is working there it’s always the best wave in the area.

If you’re learning to surf, your favorite spots may change throughout your surfing journey.  It may start off being the place you’ve learned or had the most experience.  Our favorite spot to teach in this area is Access 4 in Wrightsville Beach, and this spot has become a popular favorite among new surfers in Wrightsville Beach due to its consistent and forgiving nature.  As surfers develop, we believe that it is important to explore and surf different waves so that you can be ready for whatever the ocean throws at you.  This is why we offer travel surf programs, and why our NC Teen Overnight Program surfs multiple spots along the southeast coast of NC.

Do you have a favorite spot or a home break?  Are they one in the same?  We love hearing where our campers and clients have surfed, whether it’s abroad or locally, and we’re always excited to give advice on where to paddle out after a first surf lesson with one of our instructors.  If you have a spot that you’ve already grown attached to and want to work with a coach there then give us a call! No surf spot is too out of the way for us, whether it’s local or in another country.  We’d love to surf with you!

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